Roadtripping South Africa | Part 3/3

In Prince Albert I opt to stay at the Traveller’s Rest, a B& B owned and run by Jude and Barry, a couple originally from Lancashire, UK, who decided to settle in this lovely little dorp. I booked a week ahead as I knew this would be one of my primary stops after traversing the Swartberg Pass. I wasn’t quite sure if my head for heights would allow me to go through the pass or I would have to go around it but ended up cutting through Meiringspoort on recommendation and ease but apart from that, I get overwhelmed by the sheer size of mountains, the power, the reverence, the magnitude. It’s just a thing and no idea where it comes from — connected energy? Frankly it’s awesome being so blown away by nature that it takes my breath away. 

Once in town, I stop for lunch at an outdoor cafe next door to the Swartberg Hotel and opt for a local recipe of bobotie — delicious! Thereafter I have a sunset walk around town where everyone is very friendly and greet you and then make my way to the B& B where I meet Jude, Barry and Mr Darcy (the Irish Wolfhound) and puppy. Jude walks me through things to do in Prince Albert and the surrounding area and there is a roof deck where one can have a sundowner and see the horizon. Jude is who mentioned the dancefloor under the stars in the mountains. I decide to skip breakfast and head out on the road early as I had made the decision to drive the long scenic way back and down toward the coast.

I arrive at the entrance of the Seweweekspoort that cuts back through the Swartberg toward the coast. I take my time driving through and make multiple stops not seeing another soul — bliss.  Thinking on my feet, I decide to drive through to Swellendam via Barrydale and could kick myself as Barrydale is one of the most picturesque towns in the Klein Karoo but I was not able to find accommodation at short notice. I make a promise to return. I’ve been to Swellendam before and unfortunately, I don’t find it interesting enough to want to hang about longer than I need to but others may. It is steeped in history and if you enjoy the Cape Dutch period and have time, there are some very interesting museums like the Drostdy, and at the northern entrance to town, a great cafe that I recommend further in the post. I stay at the Swellengrebel Hotel and it is the most awful place, but you get what you pay for. The reviews are mostly by locals who are probably used to the quality but by international standards this is the worst place I have ever stayed in. Firstly, I am offered a poolside suite, that is so musty and humid that I find it hard to breathe. The bedside lampshades are tilted in a broken manner, the ceiling fan doesn’t work and the aircon is busted. The bedding looks sad and worn and the bamboo furniture outdated. There is no way I am staying in the room and ask reception for an upgrade. I am offered a room with a mountain view but smells like sweat and on my way to the room, I notice that all the room doors and windows are open like the building is airing as it has been closed for some time, which may explain things. Apparently, there is a really good buffet on offer according to the reviews but opt out and dine instead on my biltong purchased along the way. 

Next morning, I head out and stop at tourism info to check out the local activities. I had been recommended the local waterfalls in Marloth Nature Reserve as a short hike (1hr) and the Bontebok National Park close by as a drive through for a few hours. Across the road from tourism info is African Shades B& B and Restaurant that I highly recommend for breakfast. 

I head out to Marloth Nature Reserve. Now, there are sneaky ways to get in and then the right way. Locals will know a road where you can park and not pay but the right way is to access the road via the entrance following the signage and pay. Payment helps to employ locals and preserve the array of species available in this area — the flora is unrivalled. I am warned that I should be aware of puffadders along the route but no mention of the baboon tribe that I encounter but harmless in my case. They are more afraid of me and rush back into the foliage. The waterfall is unexceptional, and is probably a 12-18 ft stream down a cliffside. It is dense foliage goig up and down, ducking and diving and climbing over fallen trees so not for the occasional stroller however there are plenty of other areas to stroll. It is probably much better during the wet season but the drive in getting there and then exiting is well worth it with the mountain landscape views. And that is where I discovered others parking outside the route and entering without paying. Overall, a safe hike but quite steep for a half hour. 

On the road again and I make my way to Bontebok National Park. Basically, a piece of land fenced off and declared a national park with a few buck and fishing. For what was 3-4 hours, I saw perhaps 3 bontebok, 2 zebra and 1 blue crane. That’s ok though — the view, the surroundings and the peace and quiet was very welcome. I have not had such quiet in a very long time — virtually nothing but you, the earth and the sky — stop at one of the viewpoints, switch off your car engine and just listen.